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The Beaujolais Nouveau is one of the world’s best-known and most beloved primeur wines. Every year, on the third Thursday of November, this wine hits the market with the slogan: “Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé! It is a French tradition celebrated worldwide, but what makes this young wine so special? And how did the latest generation of winemakers put this wine back on the map?
Origins and tradition of Beaujolais Nouveau
Beaujolais, located between Mâcon and Lyon, has been producing wine since the Romans. In the 19th century, a tradition arose among local vintners and merchants to sell the newly harvested wines as quickly as possible. Fast money. This early-to-market marketing of wine is known as vin de primeur. Beaujolais Nouveau falls into this category: making wine in the vintage, bottling it and selling it. According to David Bird in his book Understanding Wine Technology, it is every accountant’s wet dream: it has a very big impact on cash flow.
By the way, the principle is not comparable to the En Primeur wines from Bordeaux. There, they already sell the young wines, but they are only released after two or three years. A system which, by the way, is almost bankrupt.
A decree of Sept. 8, 1951 (so 2026 75! years ago) ratified the official status of Beaujolais Nouveau, with Nov. 15 initially being the official release date. In 1985, the government adjusted this because it was very close to the 11th of the 11th, and regularly on a day that was too weekday. It eventually became the third Thursday of November, so that everyone could enjoy the new Beaujolais on the same day. This tradition is now a worldwide phenomenon, with races to bring the first bottles to cities such as Paris, sometimes using remarkable means of transportation such as classic airplanes, and even elephants.
Production process: Macération Carbonique
What distinguishes Beaujolais Nouveau from other red wines is its production process, macération carbonique, or carbon dioxide fermentation. In this method, whole bunches of grapes – the grapes must remain whole – go into a closed tank that is filled with carbon dioxide (CO2) before fermentation begins. Filling with carbon dioxide removes all oxygen from the tank.
With carbonic maceration, fermentation takes place ín the grape by enzymes present in the grape; thus, not by yeast from outside. The enzymes release the sugars from the cells. The enzymes then convert the sugars into alcohol. This biochemical reaction causes the temperature to rise to between 30° and 35°C. This whole process takes 5 to 15 days and produces about 3% alcohol. Then the released juice is drained from the tank and the skins are pressed. The combined juice is cooled down to 20°C. Normal fermentation then follows with the indigenous yeasts present on the skins. (David Bird, 2010)
The result is a wine with light body, lively fruitiness and soft tannins. These wines are usually meant to be drunk young and not stored. Although … I drank three- and four-year-old Beaujolais Nouveau from Domaine des Nugues. The wines were still fresh and fruity; not acidic or unwieldy.
Grape and flavor profile: Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc
Beaujolais Nouveau is made exclusively from Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, or Gamay for short. This grape is known for its juicy fruitiness and light body. The result is a purple-red wine with aromas of cherries, strawberries and raspberries, sometimes with hints of banana and pear drops. Because of its young age, the wine has higher acidity and hardly any tannin, making it supple and approachable. Serving Beaujolais Nouveau lightly chilled makes its freshness and fruitiness even more pleasing. For more detailed information on Gamay Noir à Jus Blancs
Georges Duboeuf and worldwide fame
Georges Duboeuf († 2020) played a crucial role in the international renown of Beaujolais Nouveau, but his legacy has both highs and lows. Coming from a family of winemakers, Duboeuf saw the potential of Beaujolais Nouveau as early as the 1960s and introduced the slogan Le Beaujolais Nouveau est Arrivé! His marketing strategies were innovative and bold; he turned the annual harvest of Beaujolais Nouveau into a spectacular event with festive races to get the wine to major cities such as Paris as quickly as possible. As a result, the Beaujolais Nouveau grew into a worldwide phenomenon, even becoming an unofficial start to the festive season.
Duboeuf’s approach, however, did not bring only praise. His strong focus on marketing and high production volumes led some to accuse him of over-commercialization and even the “fast food” image of wine. In the 2000s, the popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau began to decline; especially in the Netherlands. And still the Beaujolais has – wrongly – a somewhat negative image.
Critics claimed that the quality of the wine was not always consistent and by no means did justice to the specific character of Beaujolais. Nevertheless, Duboeuf managed to put Beaujolais back on the map with his refreshing approach and is remembered as a visionary and the “King of Beaujolais. Visit wine theme park Hameau Duboeuf in Romanèche-Thorrin; with boutique, restaurant, museum, theater and information center about Georges Duboeuf, the Beaujolais and Burgundy. As the French say, Mérite un détour, worth the detour!
Criticism and revival
Although the Beaujolais Nouveau was popular, the wine also received criticism. Some called it too simple, even immature. American wine critic Karen MacNeil compared drinking Beaujolais Nouveau to eating cookie dough: it gave simple pleasure but was not refined. These criticisms came mostly from the 1990s, when the wine was sometimes produced too quickly and without much care. Many winemakers went for the quick money and produced mostly quantity rather than quality. Consumers drank it anyway.
In recent years, however, a new generation of winemakers has worked to improve the reputation of Beaujolais Nouveau. They are much more knowledgeable, use the most modern techniques and have a greater focus on quality. The young wines have now become more refined and interesting. Today’s Beaujolais Nouveau has more complexity, while retaining its distinctive fruity character. This shows that Beaujolais Nouveau is more than a marketing ploy. It is a wine as a result of craftsmanship. A wine with a special style that deserves a serious place in the fine range of Beaujolais.
Noted professor Fabrizio Bucella said in the Huffington Post (2012) that “Beaujolais Nouveau is a white wine disguised as a red wine. It is an easy-drinking wine, provided you take it for what it is.’
A party for everyone
The opening of the Beaujolais Nouveau is not only a moment for wine lovers, but also a social event. All over the world, festivities are organized on the third Thursday of November. In France, especially in the Beaujolais, there are numerous events such as the “Les Sarmentelles” festival in Beaujeu. In other countries, such as the United States and the United Kingdom, wine is also an important part of celebrations around Thanksgiving and other events.
In addition to its festive atmosphere, Beaujolais Nouveau is also well known in many other countries. In the United States, for example, the wine is often associated with Thanksgiving. That falls exactly one week after the third Thursday in November. And in the United Kingdom, especially in Swansea, in Wales, is Beaujolais Day is an annual event for which restaurants and bars are completely booked up months in advance.
Gastronomic combinations
The Beaujolais Nouveau is a culinary thousand-things-cloth; perhaps the most versatile wine when it comes to culinary pairings. To give you some ideas:
Aperitif and snacks
- Dutch tapas, Brabant sausage rolls, knakworst in puff pastry
- Deep-frying – croquettes, (cheese) croquettes, chicken nuggets
- Pate – game pate, Ardennes pate, Cranberry pate, Roompaté
- Cheese- La Paillasse du Beaujolais, tomme de Beaufort, Bleu de Gex, Brillat-Savarin, délice de Bourgogne, young Comté, brie, camembert, Port salut and just about any young(er) goat’s cheese
Dishes
- Oeufs en meurette, escargots bourguignons, jambon persillé, mini burger with cheddar, salad with chicken and peach
- Poultry teragout, boeuf stroganoff, blanquette de veau, ragù bolognese, coq au vin
- Fish & chips with sauce tartare, beef carpaccio, steak tartare, beef empanadas
- Kale stew with smoked sausage, pork schnitzel with fries, spare ribs, boeuf bourguignon, sauerkraut dish with apple, minced meat and cheese, paella with chicken and fish
- Fried (duck) liver with apple, pork tenderloin in cream sauce, rabbit with mushroom cream sauce, (beef) bratwurst with mild mustard sauce, andouillette
- Fried pikeperch, turbot with asparagus and morels, cod with pesto and tomato, fish fillet with Moroccan sauce
The above is just an anthology from the very rich range of wine-food combinations. It is recommended to eat mostly lighter dishes with little sweetness and limited acidity.
Movie
Le beaujolais nouveau est arrivé is a 1978 French comédie by Jean-Luc Voulfow, based on the novel of the same name by René Fallet. – Camadule is asked by his friends to buy some barrels of wine from the famous Beaujolais from an old countess with whom he is in favor. Camadule agrees on condition that all his expenses be paid. After various adventures and twists and turns, he returns to Paris with a truck full of bottles of wine.
Beaujolais Nouveau is not the only one
Good example follows good practice. So it is with the primeur wines of the Beaujolais. The website of the INAO – the French government’s wine institute – lists 16 AOC and 67 IGP wines, all of which, according to their cahier des charges – the appellation’s rules – are allowed to market a primeur wine. That covers white, rosé and red, by the way.
Music
A party with Beaujolais Nouveau is not complete without music. That’s why I created a playlist CRU du BEAUJOLAIS on Spotify. A list of almost 60 songs that are about Beaujolais. Listen to my playlist or search on Beaujolais. And while enjoying a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau: have fun listening!
Conclusion
The Beaujolais Nouveau is more than just another wine; it is a symbol of tradition, innovation and celebration. Thanks to pioneers such as Georges Duboeuf and the efforts of young winemakers, this young wine has won a place in the hearts of many wine lovers worldwide. So as the third Thursday of November approaches, we can once again look forward to that joyous moment when we toast with the words: Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé!
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