Fìon also runs private and corporate wine tastings, and pop-ups partnering with local restaurants. Miguel Crunia writes about wines from Atlantic regions on his Substack blog Atlantic Sommelier. He also works as a wine judge, educator and speaker.
My first memorable wine experience
Wine was always part of life in my family; my grandfather was a wine merchant. I always remember his advice: ‘When drinking wine, make sure you spend a bit more and drink properly rather than just drinking whatever.’ I didn’t understand what he meant by that back when I was young, but I do now.
My go-to everyday wines
I like to keep Atlantic whites in my fridge – wines from grapes such as Albariño or Palomino. They’re my passion.
My favourite supermarket buy
Oxidative styles of Port and Sherry.
My most embarrassing moment at work
I served a Tenerife wine to two customers, assuming that they had never tasted anything like it. While I was gaily telling them about the island, I related a small fact that was incorrect. I then discovered that they had lived in Tenerife for years. Spotting my mistake, they lost their trust in me. I realised at that moment that information is the most powerful tool with which sommeliers work, not only because our credibility depends on it, but because the work and values of those who have crafted that bottle falls on our shoulders.
Pet hate
It frustrates me when people see the sommelier as enemy number one. Yes, we have created a language that is too technical, putting customers off. But a new generation of storyteller-somms has emerged, and all we want is to help you fall in love with wine – to fall in love with bottled landscapes.
My desert island pairing
A Spanish omelette Betanzos-style (with a runny core), with a glass of my quintessential Albariño, Zárate’s El Palomar (2023, £49 Highbury Vintners).
Best food and wine match
At Fìon, we do a lot of pop-ups, partnering with local chefs to match the wines we stock in our online shop to their menus. One of the most memorable pairings was matching an English Seyval Blanc fizz, made by Sergio Verrillo of London urban winery Blackbook, called GMF (2020, £34.50 Fìon), to a scallop ceviche served with celeriac and a smoked eel sauce, by Fhior restaurant’s chef Scott Smith.
My fallback quick after-work pairing
A sandwich is unbeatable at that time. The fastest and most delicious one is with baked ham, cheddar, mustard and a bit of mayo. An unfortified Palomino aged under flor will do it justice.
Best buy on my list right now
130 Brut Nature by Xavi Bernet, the man behind Júlia Bernet, an artisan winery in Penedès that’s part of the Corpinnat movement. Made entirely with Xarel.lo grapes sourced from the oldest vines of the winery (130 vines give life to this cuvée). We have the 2018 vintage, disgorged in February 2024 after 72 months ageing on its lees, at £42.50. Incredible elegance and fantastic value for money.
The wine that never fails to surprise
Alvar de Dios’ Caminos de los Arrieros (2021, £21-£24 The Fine Wine Co, Winesquare) from Arribes del Duero, just where the Duero river becomes the Douro. This is a red wine that blends indigenous varieties – Juan García and Rufete, among others. Hearing the word ‘Duero’ attached to it, most customers expect power. However, this wine couldn’t be more different: mineral, ethereal (both in colour and body), herbal and surprisingly fresh.
Wines I’d avoid on a restaurant list
Non-gastronomic, fruit-forward rosés – there’s nothing wrong with these wines in a social setting, but they’re really not my cup of tea when living a fine-dining experience in a restaurant.
Wine region I’m most excited about
The Ribeiro region in Galicia. Its story is so powerful. Many probably won’t know, but it’s one of the most historical regions in Spain. There was even a flourishing commerce between England and Ribeiro during medieval times – there are records of barrels being sold at twice the price of a barrel from Bordeaux. It’s exciting today because the traditional small-holding leads producers to craft incredible field blends from indigenous varieties, both reds and whites. Some producers are even recovering the almost-forgotten tostado style (sweet, like a passito).
Wine style I don’t enjoy drinking
Picpoul de Pinet.
Best-value wine region
Ribeira Sacra, especially those cuvées coming from the most vertiginous slopes where viticulture is literally a heroic act. When you visit, you realise the wines are too cheap if you consider all the risk and effort that growing vines involves there.
My favourite wine region to visit
I’ll stick with Ribeira Sacra. Driving around those sinuous roads along the river Sil makes the trip worthwhile. If you can, visit names such as Adega Entre Cantos, Adega Sernande, Algueira and Guímaro.
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The post Meet the sommelier… Miguel Crunia appeared first on Decanter.
