Nestled in a picturesque valley framed by the Topatopa Mountains, Ojai (pronounced ‘OH-hi’) derives its name from the Chumash word ’Awha’y, meaning ‘moon.’ Just 90 minutes north of Los Angeles and southeast of Santa Barbara County’s wine country, this small yet vibrant town on Chumash land offers wine, food, art and nature, perfect for filling a weekend getaway.
Grape-growing in the Ojai region dates back over 150 years to the arrival of Italian immigrants and Spanish missionaries. However, modern winemaking in Ojai took root in the early 1980s with Adam Tolmach, who founded The Ojai Vineyard.
Tolmach initially co-founded the iconic Au Bon Climat alongside Jim Clendenen. After parting ways with Clendenen in the early 1990s, Tolmach returned to his roots in Ojai, where he dedicated himself to crafting wines that have since put the region on the map.
Unlike other mountain ranges in the Americas that run north and south, the local mountains are part of the unique Western Transverse Range, an east-west-oriented formation that draws cool ocean air from the Pacific. This rare geography creates a Mediterranean climate further inland – warm days, cool nights and a gentle coastal influence – ideal for grape-growing and Ojai’s flourishing agriculture.
The centre of it all: The town of Ojai
The town of Ojai is quaint and local-focused with its strict prohibition of chain stores, allowing local storefronts to thrive. With the popularity of the destination for out-of-towners, the culinary scene is robust.
Ojai is known for its organic and sustainable farming, as well as its strong local artist community with numerous galleries and studios. The town has a focus on spirituality, offering a variety of retreats and wellness centres. Its natural hot springs have long been valued for their healing properties. The culinary scene is robust now that out-of-towners dominate local tourism.
Ojai Valley Inn Resort. Credit: Ojai Valley Inn
Thursday
Check into the Ojai Valley Inn for the weekend. Tucked within the Topatopa Mountains, the 100-year-old property redefines luxury. Located on 90 sprawling hectares, the resort balances relaxed and luxe amenities with a reverence for the unspoiled natural beauty of the region that embodies the authentic spirit of Ojai. Ojai Valley Inn offers championship-calibre golf, world-class dining, spa, wellness pursuits and kid-friendly activities.
Relax in your suite with unrivalled mountain views before dinner at Olivella onsite, a fine-dining restaurant focusing on seasonal and local produce with valley-to-table dining. California cuisine with Italian influence includes signature dishes such as kabocha squash caramelle, Petrossian Royal Ossetra caviar with stracciatella pannacotta, plus a ‘milk and honey’ dessert featuring local Brokaw Ranch kiwi and honey from the onsite apiary. Wine pairings feature local producers and wines from classic regions of the world.
Spa Ojai. Credit: Ojai Valley Inn
Friday
Morning
A visit to Ojai would not be complete without coffee and fresh pastries at The Dutchess in downtown Ojai, a mile from the Ojai Valley Inn. Bustling from open to close, The Dutchess features classic French baked goods, coffee from locally roasted beans and a popular weekend brunch. Come dinnertime the menu is full of dishes with Burmese-California flavours. Highlights include the lamb masala and tea leaf salad.
With a full belly, head up the windy, narrow roads of Sulphur Mountain for a private wine tasting at Ojai Mountain Estate, close to 3,000 feet (915 metres) above sea level and above the fog line, where on a clear day, you can see the Pacific and Catalina Island. With a focus on Syrah and other Rhône varieties, this high-elevation vineyard is biodynamically farmed. The tight selection of wines is intense in colour with immense fruit concentration.
Lunch
Return to the Ojai Valley Inn for a late lunch and treatment at the 31,000-square-foot luxury Spa Ojai, offering two pools, a fully-equipped gym, workout classes, a boutique and a spa café. Treatment highlights include the Pure Radiance Facial, Sound Energy Therapy, and a private Kuyam clay ritual.
Afternoon
Don’t miss Ojai’s famous ‘pink moment’ at dusk, which is visible from many locations on the property. The fading sun emits an alpenglow of reddish and pink colours across the Topatopa Mountains. Typically, one looks west at the setting sun, but here, you look east and see the sunset colours reflecting on the mountains. This is one of only a handful of places in the world where a ‘pink moment’ happens.
Evening
For dinner, head downtown to Izakaya Full Moon for fresh sushi, ramen and izakaya dishes. No reservations, and it’s a popular spot, so arrive early to avoid a lengthy wait.
Credit:Betina La Plante
Saturday
Morning
Enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the resort. Options include Libbey’s Market for something quick or to-go without sacrificing quality. All bread and pastries are made fresh onsite, including their not-to-miss riff on Pop-Tarts with a homemade Frosted Brown Sugar Cinnamon toaster pastry. The Oak offers a full breakfast menu, including challah french toast and the local ‘pink moment’ kombucha made with ginger, hibiscus, and orange zest. After breakfast, embark on a guided walk through the sprawling Ojai Valley Inn property, touring the gardens and other landmarks while enjoying the mountain vistas.
Lunch
For a casual lunch, head back downtown to the ever-popular Ojai Rôtie for French-Lebanese rotisserie chicken. Popular choices include roasted chicken, fresh-baked sourdough and endless sides, including the crowd-pleaser ‘dippity dips’, a trio of Mediterranean dips served with grilled manouche flatbread. Don’t miss the ‘Wine Box’ on the patio, serving both local and French wines.
Afternoon
After filling up at lunch, head just outside downtown for a ‘secret garden’ style wine tasting with Walson Holland. The wines are made by Benjamin Holland, who honed his skills at Amisfield in the Central Otago and Kosta Browne and Sine Qua Non in California. Holland leads most tastings, which feature the Mélange Blanc and Rouge wines, featuring both estate-grown and locally sourced Rhône varieties. Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay and Pinot Noir bottlings round out the thoughtful offering.
Evening
Dinner tonight downtown at Rory’s Place, run by sisters Rory and Meave McAuliffe. A trendy eatery with an extensive natural wine list that frames the menu. Highlights include local Channel Islands uni, tinned fish with Ritz crackers and dishes made with endless local produce.
Sisters Rory and Meave McAuliffe of Rory’s Place. Credit: Brandi Crockett
Sunday
For your last breakfast stop before wine tasting, base up at Farmer and The Cook, a spot that is as Ojai as it gets. Think adaptogenic drinks, a coffee bar and raw vegan Mexican food, including a stellar ‘huarache’, named after a sandal, featuring a thick handmade corn tortilla with grilled potatoes, onions, peppers and salsa roja.
Before heading out of town, it’s one last wine tasting at The Ojai Vineyard, the aforementioned place that put Ojai wine on the map. The simple yet stunning tasting room features a large glass room holding the library wines of the over-40-year-old local winery. Adam Tolmach, founder, always had an affinity for Rhône varieties, and the winery now makes more than two dozen different wines. Something for everyone, as they say. Taste in the sleek tasting room with the library wine room as your backdrop or on the more casual outdoor patio.
Time for a final jaunt through downtown Ojai for last-minute souvenir shopping. With their no-chain policy, something unique might strike your fancy. Not the souvenir type? A stop at Bart’s Books might be the answer. The self-proclaimed largest outdoor bookstore in the world opened in 1964, Bart’s Books is as unique as they come. Most of the books in its 130,000 collection are used, rare and out-of-print. Soon enough, you’ll leave the calm oasis of Ojai for the requisite traffic of southern California.
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